Punyakshetra Darshana

Chandramouleshwara Temple

This is the Chandramouleshwara temple located at Arasikere, around 180 kms from Bengaluru. It was built in the 12th century by the Hoysalas.

Nakshatra shaped mantapa

The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva & is unique in many ways. The most striking aspect of this temple is the above star shaped mukhamantapa.

Defaced carvings

The base of the mukhamantapa is adorned with numerous carvings of elephants which has suffered damage as a result of repeated barbaric invasions.

Exterior of the mukhamantapa

Unlike other temples, to have a darshan of Lord Shiva inside the garbhagriha, there is no direct straight access, since this particular mantapa is star shaped. Instead there are two lateral entrances at north and south of the mantapa.

Door leading to the Antarala

The ceiling in the mantapa is divided into nine compartments. There are four intricately carved pillars that support the ceiling. The Mantapa further leads to the Antarala & eventually to the garbhagriha. Unfortunately the doors were locked when I was there.

Shikhara

As we step outside the mantapa to perform a pradikshana, we notice this highly intricate Shikhara which is decked with innumerable carvings.

Nandi on the Sukanasi

Just adjacent to the Shikhara is the Sukanasi over which is a carving of Nandi. This is a recent addition. This space which is over the Antarala ( a space connecting the mantapa to the Garbhagriha) usually features the famous "Sala fighting the lion" carving, which also happens to the the emblem of the Hoysala empire. It was probably damaged during islamic invasions.

As seen above, most of the sculptures have suffered extensive damage. Almost all beyond recognition unfortunately. While some are defaced, some have had their limbs/arms chopped off in true jehadi style. The kind of cultural losses Bharat suffered due to islamic invasions is simply quantifiable. Seeing such a fine temple, the very zenith of our Hindu architectural prowess in such a state left me depressed & devastated 😢😢

I realize the damage on these sculptures are beyond any kind of restoration. At best we could preserve whatever is left of it.

Venugopala

A maimed carving of Krishna playing the flute.

Desecrated murthis

Murthis which were once part of active worship... Barbarically desecrated & left to rot in one corner of the temple.

Viragallu

The virakallu (hero's stone) is the first thing that you notice as you enter the temple complex. Its carved in memory of brave warriors martyred in battle.

Viragallu

More damaged virakallus having inscriptions dating back to the 11th century. Stories about absolute bravery & sacrifice.

Bheereshwara & Veereshwara shrines

There is a secondary structure adjacent to the main one. Houses 3 different lingams. Notably Bheereshwara & Veereshwara.

Nagadevatas

Carvings of nagadevatas lay beneath those trees.

Entrance/exit

The scenery that greets you as you enter/exit the temple.

Murudeshwara Temple Complex

The temple town of Murudeshwara signals the rise of the Hindus at every level. If hindu renaissance had to pick a place, this would be it. Entire town-temple complex showcases the enormous potential Hindu pilgrimage has for the rest to emulate.

This is the Raja Gopuram of the Murudeshwara Shiva temple, at around 238 feet it is the tallest gopuram in the State of Karnataka.

Gopuram

The Gopuram sits on a tiny bit of land connecting the mainland to the Kanduka Hill, which is home to India's tallest Shiva statue.

The gold coloured Vimana of the main Shiva temple,which houses a part of Mahadeva's atma. Overlooking it is the massive Raja gopuram.

Vimana & Gopuram

Breathtaking view of Bharat's tallest Shiva statue from the temple complex.

Vimana & Shiva statue

Was blessed with this view on my 3 day stay at Murudeshwara. Just can't get enough of Shiva!

Shiva on Kanduka Hill

Gopuram

The Nandi facing the Shiva statue, in the back drop the rajagopuram

Nandi

On the base of the massive Shiva statue is a cave, its called Bhookailasa. It depicts the story of the Atmalingam beautifully via tableaus. The tableaus are so life like that one wouldn't even need a backdrop to understand the story of the atmalingam. Every kid must be shown this.

Here is the story. Ravana's mother Kaikesi praying to the lord in form of a lingam made out of clay.

Kaikesi praying to clay Lingam

Upon realizing the clay lingam getting washed away everytime on the seashore, Ravana vows to get his mother Lord Shiva's atma itself

Shocked expressions all around as Ravana vows to get Shiva's atma.

Ravana sets out on a long penance to please Lord Shiva to grant him his varam.

Ravana performing penance

Ravana intensifies his tapasya to please the lord.

Ravana in intense tapasya

Despite months and years of intense tapasya, Shiva doesn't pay heed to Ravana's call. Enraged by this he goes lifts Kailasa to get Lord Shiva's attention

Ravana lifts Kailasa parvata

Moved by Ravana's steadfast devotion, lord finally grants him darshanam. Shocked look on Parvathi's face when Ravana asks for the atmalingam,

Shiva grants darshan to Ravana

Meanwhile Narada, who is always on the move in all the trilokas gets a whiff of the entire thing & approaches Maha Vishnu for help at Vaikuntam.

Narada approaches Maha Vishnu for help

Vishnu diplomatically tells Narada that he can't do much at this point & asks him to approach Lord Ganesha, which Narada does so dutifully.

Narada approaches Ganesha on Vishnu's advice.

Meanwhile Ravana who is convinced that the atmalingam is all his, enters into to marriage with Mandodari in Lanka.

Ravana weds Mandodari

Ravana leaves his newly wedded wife Mandodari for the forests for another round of intense tapasya in his quest for the Atmalingam.

Shocked expression on Kaikesi's face as she learns Ravana departing for the forest.

There's no response from Shiva despite the intense calls of Ravana, enraged he goes on to severe his own heads.

Ravana severing his own heads in rage

Unable to watch, Shiva descends & hands him the atmalinga, with a condition that it should not be placed on the ground till he reaches Lanka.And that if the lingam were ever to be placed on the ground, it would remain there forever. Ravana now sets on his journey back to lanka.

Lord Shiva handing the Atmalinga to Ravana

While Ravana makes his way back to Lanka, Vishnu & Ganesha device a plan to retrive the atmaligam from Ravana's possession. Vishnu uses his sudarshana chakra to hide the sun thus making Ravana believe that it was dusk & time for his routine evening rituals. Ravana being a devout brahmin never missed his rituals. While Lord Ganesha takes the form of a young short Brahmin boy & approaches Ravana.

Ganesha disguised at a Brahmin boy approaches Ravana.

Ravana asks the boy to hold the lingam for him while he completes his rituals, ganesha agrees to it with a condition to which Ravana agrees. Condition being that he would hold onto the lingam for as long as its enormous weight permitted him to & thereafter call ravana out 3 times. And if Ravana didn't turn up by the 3rd call he'd place the lingam on the ground..which is what exactly happens. Ganesha out smarts Ravana.

Ganesha about to place the Atmalingam on the ground.

An enraged Ravana attacks the little boy. Ganesha being the cute naughty boy that he is makes all those funny faces pretending to be scared.

A furious Ravana attacking Ganesha

Meanwhile Vishnu withdraws his sudarshana chakra, restoring the sun to its original bright state. Ravana realizes he has been tricked.

Ravana trying to uproot the Atmalingam from the ground & failing.

An enraged Ravana tries to uproot the atmalingam, fails in the process. A few pieces of it do scatter & fall away at 4 other distant places.

Ravana trying to uproot the atmalingam

The Ganesha & the main Atmalingam still stand to this day & the place is called Gokarna. Its around 90 kms north of Murudeshwara. These are the panchalinga sthala associated with the atmalingam story. Murudeshwara being one of them. The others are Gokarna, Sajjeshwara, Dareshwara & Gunavanteshwara. All these kshetras are loacted within a 100 kms radius of each other.